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random stories from the world of surfing and cervical myelopathy recent posts obituary of surfer founder john severson in the times law firm offices do not blossom finnegan's non-wake obituary of chris tyler, skewjack founder and entrepreneur, in the times tls review of amazing surfing stories flack at the top of the stack the book, the calf, the launch that uneasy pre-publication feeling... a step forward for surfing? four books and another one archives july 2017 june 2017 march 2017 december 2016 july 2016 june 2016 may 2016 february 2016 january 2016 september 2015 more... banner photography www.ocean-image.com and russ pierre become a fan july 31, 2017 obituary of surfer founder john severson in the times pleased to get this obit of surfer magazine founder john severson away in the times. severson was a sharp, charismatic and talented guy; good with words and images; a fine surfer and a family man. he figured out something that many of us would envy: how to make money when young, then quit a conventional job and live life on his terms - in hawaii, surfing and painting. the photo here, of greg noll at pipeline, is one of his most famous. thanks, as ever, to matt warshaw for his help. posted at 10:43 am | permalink | comments (0) june 03, 2017 law firm offices do not blossom for the past four or five years, i've been involved in some corporate copywriting for two very large organisations. this work came to an end on wednesday this week. one of the entities had taken its outsourced writing in-house a few months ago, the other decided it wanted a different approach to its copywriting needs as march came to a close. it therefore bid adieu to the agency that had, in turn, contracted me. finding out that this throughput of work was coming to an end might have been stressful. after all, it helped pay the bills. but life is curious. no sooner had i been told the gig would be ending, than a ton of other work landed - interesting, rewarding, exciting work with pleasant people. and today, i remembered an admonition. i'd written a piece about how the second of the two businesses had opened a new office somewhere. as is the way of this kind of writing, everything has to be on the up; negatives are disallowed. and so, having been informed about how the new office was going great guns (so soon after its opening), i wrote something like: already our new office in lima is blossoming. the admonition asked me to rewrite that phrase. the reason? "law firm offices do not blossom". posted at 10:45 am | permalink | comments (0) march 20, 2017 finnegan's non-wake i'm halfway through william finnegan's barbarian days . yes, this book came out about two years ago. i got there in the end. but not to the end. yet. but i will finish this book. it's what scribes of back-cover blurb call "a compulsive read". why? because of the blend of tone (down to earth, unforced), credibility (finnegan put the hours in, both to writing and surfing) and style (sick of "sick" as the adjective de rigueur in surfing? unstoked by people who are stoked? in need of something that might really be "epic", rather than a stale imitation? finnegan is the answer). the book is arguably the best map of surfing's evolution from the early 60s to the present day yet written. finnegan was there at the beginning, in epicentres like hawaii and california (initially riding longboards). he was swept up by the shortboard revolution before heading off on the search ahead of its colonisation as a marketing term. he got to ride tavarua before it became a tourist resort (have they now killed the snakes there, to make it user-friendly, i wonder?), spent time in the lucky country and snagged waves in bali, various african countries and madeira, as well as a whole load of places in between. my trajectory through life mirrors finnegan's not in the sense that i ever became anything to write home about as a surfer, but thanks to the places we visited. i imagine this is the same for many surfers. of whatever level - hotshot, kook, somewhere in between - the chances are that we'll visit the same places, at some time or another. another similarity is that finnegan read constantly on his trips here and there. with some 240 pages of barbarian days to go, i sense that the book doubles as a memoir not just of a surfing life but of a writer's, too. and like finnegan, everywhere i went i had a book on the go; to read (and learn) was as important as to see (and surf). we also both like joyce, although unlike finnegan i haven't read finnegans wake . thanks to his excellent book, i feel it's time to revisit the irish master - and to find the time, so elusive thanks to work and all the things that add up to life, for surfing again. posted at 04:14 pm | permalink | comments (1) december 21, 2016 obituary of chris tyler, skewjack founder and entrepreneur, in the times pleased to get a couple of pieces away in the times recently - one in the sport section last saturday on surfing and the olympics , the other an obituary on the legendary chris tyler , in the paper today. always an honour to write obits, especially this one of cass and essex's dad. posted at 01:28 pm | permalink | comments (0) july 24, 2016 tls review of amazing surfing stories my third non-fiction book, amazing surfing stories , came out in september 2012. remarkably, it's taken till now for me to realise that it was (nicely) reviewed in the times literary supplement . here's what josh raymond said: agatha christie’s heroine anne bedingfield, in the man in the brown suit , said of surfing: “you are either vigorously cursing or idiotically pleased with yourself”. christie herself was keen on the sport, and one of the entries in alex wade’s amazing surfing stories playfully speculates that when she disappeared for eleven days in december 1926 she was in fact riding the waves at bridlington, on the yorkshire coast. surfing offers danger, communion with nature and the possibility of high-speed grace, all without the hassle and expense of ski lifts, and, as with many “extreme” sports, discussion among its enthusiasts can oscillate between self-satisfation and incomprehensibility. it is therefore especially pleasing that wade’s second book on the subject, following (2008), is so accessible and diverting. there are a great many stories here, all short and true. we hear about world championships, shark attacks and three-wave holddowns, drug addictions, a stranding and the feeling of riding “jaws” – one of the world’s most destructive waves – at night. the language is at once literary and idiomatic. “stoked”, “amped” and “gnarly” could sit uneasily alongside “terrible grandeur” and the “reeling perfection of thurso east”, but wade comes across as so steeped in respect for the ocean that the overriding impression is of authenticity. a thirteen-year-old girl who continued to surf competitively after her arm was bitten off by a shark says simply, “people in car crashes don’t stop driving”. the book succeeds through a confluence of subject matter and structure. some of these stories will transport us, others may pass us by, and the feeling is eerily akin to that of surfing itself. wade achieves a subtly different moral note in each piece, and even those dealing with death or suicide feel bound by a spirit of generosity and the value of saying “yes”. it is a pity that wiley nautical do the author few favours. the layout is unwieldy, typographical errors lurk like sea urchins, and the book went to press before an exuberant reference to lance armstrong could be cut. fortunately these detract no more than do bumps and grazes after a day among the waves. posted at 11:53 am | permalink | comments (0) june 10, 2016 flack at the top of the stack wandered into soho this afternoon with harry in search of camera shops (yes). checked out the photographer's gallery and loved the bert hardy exhibition. meandered here and there, each step a gesture of defiance to my hangover, and then, in an attempt

URL analysis for surfnation.co.uk

http://www.surfnation.co.uk/2016/06/that-uneasy-pre-publication-feeling.html#comments
http://www.surfnation.co.uk/2016/06/flack-at-the-top-of-the-stack.html
http://www.surfnation.co.uk/2017/03/finnegans-non-wake.html
http://www.surfnation.co.uk/2016/12/obituary-of-chris-tyler-skewjack-founder-and-entrepreneur-in-the-times.html
http://www.surfnation.co.uk/2017/07/obituary-of-surfer-founder-john-severson-in-the-times.html
http://www.surfnation.co.uk/2016/06/that-uneasy-pre-publication-feeling.html
http://www.surfnation.co.uk/2016/12/obituary-of-chris-tyler-skewjack-founder-and-entrepreneur-in-the-times.html#comments
http://www.surfnation.co.uk/2015/09/index.html
http://www.surfnation.co.uk/2016/05/a-step-forward-for-surfing.html#comments
http://www.surfnation.co.uk/books/
http://www.surfnation.co.uk/2017/06/index.html
http://www.surfnation.co.uk/2017/07/index.html
http://www.surfnation.co.uk/2016/06/the-book-the-calf-the-launch.html#comments
http://www.surfnation.co.uk/about.html
http://www.surfnation.co.uk/2016/07/index.html
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